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Le Café de Bouzigues, Aigues-Mortes

7 Rue Pasteur
France 30220
Tel: 33 4 66 53 93 95's insider take:

A crimson-red, low-slung dining room just off Aigues-Mortes' main street, the Café de Bouzigues is a ramshackle, homespun affair that's miles away from Michelin-starred fanciness. The low ceilings and dark interior are clues that this is an "authentic" place to sample locally sourced delicacies—but the kitchen supplies enough youthful attitude and attention to detail to keep the café from being kitschy. The menu includes local oysters in a chaud-froid presentation (both cooked and raw), rabbit stew, and the local specialty, steak from the black bulls who roam the Camargue plains and sometimes end up as contestants in the regional bullfights. A pissaladière, an onion-confit pizza, is perfectly caramelized and smoky with anchovies. Rabbit haunch with a risotto of fluffy red Camargue rice is strongly flavorful yet far from overpowering, and a dessert of farmer's cheese with fig jelly is a perfectly simple sweet-and-savory combination.

Opens daily at 7 pm.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.