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Marmalade, San Juan

Puerto Rico, Caribbean
317 Calle Fortaleza
Old San Juan
San Juan
Puerto Rico 00901
Tel: 787 724 3969's insider take:

The restaurant certainly looks the part of a late-night celeb hangout, with daybeds piled high with glimmering silk pillows, and a sculptural orange lantern that ribbons over the length of the ceiling. The real reason to come here, though, is the food. Dishes that marry Italian and Puerto Rican influences—soul-stirring white bean soup topped with fragrant black-truffle oil and crispy fried chives; fluffy gnocchi with a rich ragù of beef and greens—are not to be missed. Showier dishes don't quite live up to their ambitions: Salt cod croquettes, for instance, have too many ingredients (saffron aioli, red pepper foam) that cloud the overall effect. But most dishes succeed. If the rear dining room is full (as it often is, well into the wee hours), grab a spot at the communal bar, where diners trade ordering tips and chat over glasses of refreshing yet terrifically potent cocktails.—Leigh Newman

Open daily 5:30 pm to 1 am.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.