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Il Frantoio, Ostuni

16 Strada Statale
Tel: 39 083 133 0276's insider take:

A masseria near Ostuni and the sea shelters a sort of Puglian Farm Experience: horses, chickens, vintage carts, the lot. Many areas of this agriturismo (yes, there are rooms, and quite classy ones, too) work to supply the well-known all-female kitchen of Rosalba Ciannamea, who owns the place with her partner Armando Balestrazzi. Night after night, Ciannamea's kitchen turns out ten-course dinners, featuring local food that is occasionally not so rustic: smoked mozzarella with clover, chickpea soup with fresh borage pasta, fried lampascioni (wild hyacinth bulbs) with orange-blossom honey… If you can't move afterward, remember those rooms are really very nice. You can also buy some of the estate's own olive oil, jams, and rosoli (fruit and herb liqueurs) to take away.

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