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Italy's insider take:

The capital of Puglia, and its main entry point, is an industrial port city with a historic old town that's been revitalized in recent years, thanks partly to an ambitious mayor and partly to tourism. The cobblestoned, meandering Città Vecchia has plenty of restaurants and cafés, plus the Cattedrale di San Sabino and Basilica di San Nicola, two of the most important Romanesque buildings in the land. But this is a big, sprawling southern city with its fair share of crime, organized and not—so watch that camera.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.