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Devassa Leblon, Leblon

48 Rua Rainha Guilhermina
Rio de Janeiro
Tel: 55 21 2512 3578's insider take:

The art of conversation is not dead in Brazil. Large groups can sit at tables for hours upon hours, drinking beloved tap beer (served "stupidly cold," as the saying goes) and talking about sports, the latest Big Brother Brasil season, who's cheating on whom, and so on. While there seem to be a million tables around town devoted to this very thing, Devassa's warm, vaguely bistro decor and friendly vibe make for an enjoyable time—even if you have no idea what your new friends are talking about. It brews its own draft beer, including a lovely lager (the louira—blond women are often referred to by the same name) and a hearty black. This outlet is the new Leblon location, but there are others around town, including in Ipanema and Centro.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.