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Il Pagliaccio, Rome

Ostia, Italy, Europe: An interior view of the Ristorante il Pagliaccio
129 Via dei Banchi Vecchi
Campo de' Fiori
Italy 00186
Tel: 39 06 6880 9595's insider take:

Formerly the chef at Palazzo Sasso in the Amalfi Coast resort of Ravello, Anthony (a.k.a. Antonio) Genovese started back at first base when he opened this charming but modest restaurant in a centro storico lane of antiques and craft shops. But his cutting-edge Italian fusion cuisine has already hooked a crowd of regulars, who come to taste creations like red prawns with toasted peanuts in a light sauce of coconut and green tea, or saddle of lamb with lemon and wild fennel, eggplant purée, and fried figs. A spring 2006 makeover brought the ambience up to par with the food, lending a touch of minimalist urban class to the rustic main dining room, with its old wooden beams and checkerboard tile floor. The wine list is small but perfectly formed, and the desserts, by French pastry chef Marion Lichtle, are to die for. The award of a second Michelin star in 2010 caused prices to creep up a little, but "The Clown" still offers a great-value epicurean dinner by Roman standards.

Open Mondays and Tuesdays 8 pm to 10 pm, Wednesdays through Saturdays 1 pm to 2:30 pm and 8 to 10 pm.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.