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Osteria dell'Angelo, Rome

24 Via G. Bettolo
Tel: 39 06 372 9470's insider take:

The owner, a former rugby player, and his slightly scruffy crew serve a three-course, fixed-price menu (currently $31 a head) that includes cookies and wine. Among the hearty, traditional Roman dishes on offer are pasta all gricia (with bacon and pecorino), as well as superb roast lamb. Other grilled meats and fish are available for a small supplement. Lunch has a similar menu but à la carte menu. Service is informal and gruffly jovial. There are outdoor tables, when the weather allows; but whether you eat inside or out, it pays to book ahead, as this place is popular.

Closed Sundays and in August.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.