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Dal Cavalier Gino, Rome

4 Vicolo Rossini
Italy 00186
Tel: 39 06 687 3434's insider take:

Good centro storico trattorias are hard to find, and Gino's is no exception: It's tucked away in a tiny cul-de-sac just around the corner from the Camera dei Deputati, the lower house of the Italian parliament. It pays to book, as the place tends to fill up with homesick deputati who come for the next best thing to Mamma's cooking. The day's specials are chalked up at the entrance to this rustic time capsule; they generally include Roman classics like tonnarelli cacio e pepe (pasta with crumbled sheep's-milk cheese and plenty of black pepper) and pasta e ceci in brodo di arzilla (a soup of pasta and chickpeas in skate broth). The house wine is onesto, as they say around these parts: rustic and unrefined, but gratifyingly low in price.

Open Mondays through Saturdays 1 to 2:45 pm and 8 to 10:45 pm.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.