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Da Felice, Rome

29 Via Mastro Giorgio
Italy 00153
Tel: 39 06 574 6800's insider take:

When the inaptly named Felice ran it (felice means "happy," and he rarely was), this traditional Roman restaurant in the down-home Testaccio district was a spit-and-sawdust bolt-hole for traders from the local produce market. Felice's offspring have since given the place an industrial-chic makeover, and upped the ante in the kitchen. As a result, smart-set newcomers now squeeze in with salt-of-the-earth stalwarts. The decibel level is as high as ever, and the traditional Roman dishes are as generous and tasty as ever, if somewhat more refined (try the tonnarelli cacio e pepe, chunky spaghetti with crumbled sheep's-milk cheese and black pepper). The wine list is now large and interesting, and though prices have risen (haven't they everywhere?), it's still a fair value for genuine cucina romana.—Lee Marshall

Open Mondays through Saturdays 12:30 to 3 pm and 8 to 11:30 pm, Sundays 12:30 to 3 pm.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.