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Glass Hostaria, Rome

58 Vicolo del Cinque
Italy 00152
Tel: 39 5833 5903's insider take:

In Trastevere—with its wine bars and student-filled trattorias, rowdy pizzerias and late-night dives—Glass really stands out. This place is not only design-heavy, with a shadowy mezzanine, pebble-filled floor cutouts, and dramatic lighting, it is also gastronomically innovative. United States–trained chef Cristina Bowerman has earned herself a Michelin star with creations such as warm squab salad with sunflower seeds, micro greens, and roast polenta and her signature coffee-crusted lamb with spiced cherries and asparagus. Prices are high, but so is the quality; make sure you leave room for the superlative desserts. Only the service—often slow and not always charming—can let Glass down occasionally.—Lee Marshall

Open Tuesdays through Saturdays 8 pm to midnight.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.