Tel: 43 6628 8977
Austrians are mad for coffee, of course, and this Belle Époque institution is a fine place to join them. Try a slice of Sacher-Torte, a traditional chocolate cake filled with apricot jam, as well as the Sacher Coffee (black coffee, cream, and chocolate and peach liqueur).
Open daily 7:30 am to midnight.
9 Alter Markt
Tel: 43 66284 44880
A local landmark since 1705 and the oldest café in town: Young Mozart was a regular. Come here for tea, coffee, ice cream, people-watching, and most of all, the pastries (from strudel to tortes). During the week, they have a mere 30 sweets to choose from. Go on a Saturday, when they up that to 50 tantalizing options.
Open daily 7 am to 9 pm, September through June; 7 am to midnight, July and August.
Tel: 43 662 843 619
If you're craving Italian food, look no further than the wine cellar at Hotel Elefant. Tucked away downstairs, Cantinetta Marchese serves authentic delights such as penne all'arrabbiata and tasty tiramisu.
Open Tuesday through Saturday 12 to 3 pm and 6 pm to 11 pm.
33 Müllner Hautpstrasse
Tel: 662 87 0899
Andreas Kaiblinger opened this contemporary restaurant in summer 2004. The four separate weekly seasonal menus are ambitious enough to give Kaiblinger a chance to regain the Michelin star he won at his former restaurant Perkeo, though it's hard to concentrate on the plate with so much eye candy here. Ocher, vermilion, and polished concrete walls set off multicolored chairs, and there's a glass installation allowing diners to peer into the Almkanal River flowing practically through the room.
Open Tuesdays through Saturdays, 12 to 2 pm and 6:30 to 9:30 pm.
Museum der Moderne Salzburg
Tel: 43 66284 1000
A restaurant fabulous enough to stand up to the art and architecture of the adjoining museum. The central design feature is itself a work of art: A 500-antler lighting installation by architect Matteo Thun. When you tire of gazing up, look outside for a stellar view of the Baroque Altstadt—or, in summer, go outside and dine on the terrace. Sepp Schellhorn, the chef at Goldegger Seehof—also a cookbook author and (for his sins) president of the Austrian Hotelier's Association—is at the helm.
Open Tuesdays through Saturdays, 9 am to 1 am.
Tel: 43 66284 15840
Magazin opened in 2003 and shook everything up in this essentially conservative town. A complex of renovated burgher houses joined by a modern glass gallery, the pioneering miniature culinary empire features a well-stocked food shop (including 600 Austrian wines), a cooking school, and a determinedly stylish restaurant. Dinner is served at a long, 28-seat communal table, in a cavelike bunker; the menu makes up for the rest of Salzburg's caution with exuberant dishes such as rump of lamb paired with octopus and curd-semolina dumplings, grilled scallops on orange crème, and a spicy hot chocolate with chile.
Open Tuesdays through Saturdays 10 am to midnight, September through June; open daily 10 am to midnight, July and August.
Tel: 43 6628 41780
The Hohensalzburg Fortress's former outdoor dining area with its beer tables and benches has been spruced up into an echt restaurant serving the Austrian canon; the famous local dish Salzburger Nockerl soufflé is a specialty. As well as the food, also come here for the stunning view over the outskirts of Salzburg and the Tennengebirge.
Open daily 9 am to 8 pm.
Hotel Goldener Hirsch
Tel: 43 66280 84889
More informal than its sibling restaurant at the Goldener Hirsch, this folkish dining room is situated right next door to the hotel, with its own entrance. The interior simulates an Alpine hunting lodge, with beamed ceilings and lamp shades painted with leaping wildlife. The menu features the kind of genuinely hearty, rustic food that isn't dumbed down for passing tour groups. Real culinary ethnographers will order the combination plate of velvety liver sausages and very black pudding.
Open daily 11:30 am to 10 pm.
4 St. Peter Bezirk
Tel: 43 66284 12680
Claiming to be Europe's oldest restaurant (established in the year 800), this local landmark—part of a sprawling Benedictine abbey in the middle of the Altstadt—is proof that playing tourist sometimes pays off. You might want to skip the Mozart dinner concerts, which take dinner theater to a new level but sometimes haul in entire tour groups (local signature dishes are served in a candlelit second-floor Baroque hall while costumed singers run through their Mozart paces). Nab a table downstairs in one of the surprisingly quiet, wood-paneled dining rooms and tuck into the roasted saddle of suckling pig with savoy cabbage, followed by a perfect plum tart, you may wind up being seduced by the place, in spite of yourself.
Open daily 11 am to 10:45 pm.