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SPQR, San Francisco

1911 Fillmore Street
San Francisco , California
Tel: 415 771 7779's insider take:

The ancient initials emblazoned on Rome's manhole covers and imperial landmarks popped up on trendy Fillmore Street in Pacific Heights, in the form of a bustling osteria. SPQR quickly made a name for itself serving tasty Cal-Italian food and expert wine pairings, but some loyalists got fed up with the notoriously long waits. Problem solved: As of October 2009, the restaurant finally takes reservations for tables in its buzzing, narrow space. Start with cold, hot, or fried antipasti—don't miss the griddled local calamari with salsa verde—then choose between such dishes as ricotta ravioli with lamb's quarters and fontina, and braised oxtail with polenta. Monday nights bring mainly neighborhood locals and provide the best glimpse into the lives of twentysomething Pac Heights hedonists.—Updated by John Vlahides

Open Mondays through Wednesdays 5:30 to 10:30 pm, Thursdays through Saturdays 11 am to 2:30 pm and 5:30 to 11 pm, and Sundays 11 am to 2:30 pm and 5:30 to 10 pm.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.