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Spork, San Francisco

1058 Valencia Street
San Francisco , California
Tel: 415 643 5000's insider take:

Chef-owner Bruce Binn—a veteran of such S.F. mainstays as Citizen Cake and the Slow Club—describes the look of his Mission District eatery Spork as looking like a "sexy Greyhound bus station." We'd say it's more like a fast-food outlet viewed through Champagne goggles: Set at a see-and-be-seen corner in a spiffed-up 1960s-vintage KFC, Spork gives a nod to the location's greasy spoon past with stainless steel sporks and orange plasticlipped coffee pots in lieu of water pitchers. Slick banquettes, modern accents, and vintage gas-station signage make the place inviting to local hipsters, all hungry for revved-up comfort food like steak stroganoff and juicy burgers. The wine list is appropriately short and reasonably priced, and while there are only a few desserts, each is simple and delicious.—Updated by John Vlahides

Open Mondays through Thursdays 6 to 10 pm, Fridays 6 to 11 pm, Saturdays 5:30 to 10:30 pm, and Sundays 11 am to 2 pm and 5:30 to 9 pm.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.