Concierge.com's insider take:

The restaurants of Condado are always crowded—with tourists. If you want to live it up with the locals, head a few blocks south to the Santurce neighborhood. Surrounding the Plaza del Mercado, a century-old fruit and vegetable market, are dozens of simple eateries packed with Puerto Rican families. Our favorite is Tasca El Pescador, where the catch of the day is iced down in a glass display case. If there's red snapper, try the whole fish deep-fried in a dish called chillo entero frito. The tostones—mashed green plantains that are also deep-fried—make a good side. Otherwise, stick to the arroz con calamari, a dramatically dark dish of rice mixed with pieces of squid in its own ink. The staff in the pea-green dining room here runs the air-conditioning nonstop, so to avoid the chill grab one of the tables out on the sidewalk. As with most seafood places, it's closed Monday.

Open Tuesdays through Sundays 11 am to 6 pm.