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Restaurant Martin Wishart, Edinburgh

54 The Shore
Scotland EH6 6RA
Tel: 44 131 553 3557's insider take:

Edinburgh's first Michelin star (awarded in 2001, when this place was two years old) appropriately belongs to a native son, Martin Wishart. Having done much to kick-start Edinburgh's fine-dining scene, many would say that Wishart remains at the head of the pack. He trained with two Roux brothers and Marco Pierre White, and while his cooking owes much to France, his ingredients are rooted in Scotland. Menu descriptions such as roast saddle and braised neck of Vementry lamb, dauphine potatoes, port-braised turnip, crosnes (Chinese artichokes), and sprout leaves don't really do justice to the delicate artistry on the plate. The restaurant's decor is plush, from the thick carpets to the plump upholstery of the seating, but touches such as swirling gold wall panels and organically shaped sconces stop it from appearing too formal. In 2011, Wishart opened his city-center venture The Honours, a faster-paced operation with polished brasserie classics.—Jonathan Trew

Open Tuesdays through Saturdays 12 to 2 pm, 7 to 10 pm.

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