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Stravaigin, Glasgow

28 Gibson Street
West End
Scotland G12 8NX
Tel: 44 141 334 2665's insider take:

This West End restaurant—run by Colin Clydesdale, whose late father, Ronnie, owned Glasgow landmark The Ubiquitous Chip—has weathered magnificently over the past decade by testing what works and developing its dishes. The result is an exemplary operation with a fun, informed staff and the kind of menu that makes every dish sound tempting. They do a venison burger and sautéed potatoes with sea salt and rosemary one week out of every month; alternatively, try their "Spice Route Curry" of the week (Indian, Thai, or Malaysian), and if you can face it, taste the haggis, which has won them a lot of praise too. If that's all too rich, take a seat at a wooden table in the street-level café (the restaurant's in an atmospheric stone-walled basement) for a pretheater or lunch prix fixe of three courses and coffee.

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