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Kitchin, Edinburgh

78 Commercial Quay
Tel: 44 131 555 1755's insider take:

Run ambitiously by young chef Tom Kitchin and his wife, Michaela, this Leith restaurant has shot into Edinburgh's premier league since opening in June 2006. The Scottish chef trained with some of Europe's culinary top guns, who hammered home the importance of seasonality. You won't find any asparagus flown in from Africa on the menu here. Instead, think seared hand-dived Orkney scallops with roasted Scottish asparagus wrapped in pancetta, or roasted wild fillet of North Sea turbot served with artichoke, shellfish à la barigoule, and a saffron sauce.

Closed Sundays and Mondays.

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