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The Cross, Kingussie

Scotland, Europe
Tweed Mill Brae
Ardbroilach Road
Kingussie , Scotland
PH21 1LB
Tel: 44 1540 66 11 66's insider take:

Set by a river in the village of Kingussie, 20 miles south of Inverness, the dining room in this converted tweed mill is whitewashed and has beamed ceilings and an open fire. It's all perfectly comfortable and pleasant but won't distract from The Cross's two main attractions: Its imaginative food and intriguing wine list. The kitchen keeps on racking up awards for dishes such as organic Shetland salmon marinated with lime and ginger, a combo that makes a pleasant change from the ubiquitous smoked salmon. Another starter of sweet, seared scallops comes with a contrastingly sharp dressing of capers and a cauliflower purée. Local ingredients such as a well-flavored roast partridge might be married with a buttery root mash and then spiked with slightly more exotic cowberries. The wine list is less concerned with expensive grand crus than it is with lesser-known but interesting bottles that reflect the owners' catholic tastes. They list 40 dessert wines, which may well be a record for Scotland. And if you sample too much, there are eight reasonable en-suite rooms.

Open Tuesdays through Saturdays 7 to 8:30 pm.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.