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Mr. & Mrs. Bund, Shanghai

18 The Bund, 6F
China 200002
Tel: 86 21 6323 9898's insider take:

French chef Paul Pairet enjoyed huge success with his playful molecular gastronomy at Pudong Shangri-La's Jade on 36. He then jumped the Huangpu River to go solo on the Bund. The need to book a table here several days in advance proves it was a good move. Pairet is a thoughtful, humorous personality, and his restaurant's kaleidoscopic interior sets a lively, informal tone. Service is gracious and French-trained but unstuffy, while the modern European cuisine blends updated classicism with Pairet's molecular tendencies. The huge menu offers something for most tastes, and surprises for everyone. A rich gazpacho is served with toasted bread, tomato, roasted chile peppers, fresh anchovies, and arugula; Pan-roasted veal cutlets are finished with roasted morels, asparagus, light cream, toasted almonds, and hazelnuts.—Gary Bowerman

Open Mondays 11:30 am to 2 pm and 6:30 to 10:30 pm, Tuesdays through Fridays 11:30 am to 2 pm and 6:30 pm to 4 am, Saturdays 6:30 pm to 4 am, and Sundays 6:30 to 10:30 pm.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.