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Pri Vitezu, Ljubljana, Slovenia

20 Breg
Slovenia 1000
Tel: 386 1 426 6058's insider take:

The main dining space in this formal restaurant looks like a genteel drawing room, furnished with antiques and lit by a chandelier crowned with the Hapsburg double-headed eagle. The other dining room is rustic and homey. There is a menu displayed outside the door, but it bears little resemblance to what's on offer. You'll have to rely on the waiter to talk you through whatever the kitchen has whipped up for the evening. Starters may include an outstanding red-wine risotto and excellent beef or swordfish carpaccio, and may be followed by tagliata (strips of beef) served on a bed of arugula with fried potatoes, or orata (John Dory) filleted at the table. There's no printed wine list, but the waiters will suggest a decent bottle.

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