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Wärdshuset Ulla Winbladh, Stockholm

8 Rosendalsvägen
Tel: 46 8 663 0571's insider take:

Husmanskost, traditional Swedish food, is far from hip, but even in style-conscious Stockholm it's extremely popular. On a sunny day, the best place to try köttbullar (meatballs), stuffed cabbage rolls, fried Baltic herring, and other humble classics is under the mature oak trees of this inn. Despite being in the heart of the city, it feels like the Swedish countryside. Built for the 1897 Stockholm Exposition, it has half–Art Nouveau, half-Gustavian interiors. The prices are cheeky, but worth it, given the idyllic setting and friendly service. Follow the meal with a stroll through Djurgården.

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