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Bathers' Pavilion, Sydney

4 The Esplanade
Balmoral Beach
Tel: 61 2 9969 5050's insider take:

A quick ferry ride to Middle Harbour will bring you to one of Sydney's classic eateries. Set in a restored 1920s Spanish Mission-style building on Balmoral Beach, it was once a changing parlor for beachgoers. These days, it serves up food that's a little local, a little Mediterranean, and a little Asian—the fusion otherwise known as mod-Oz cuisine. The seared Moreton Bay bugs (don't be afraid—they're like small lobsters) steamed with pork belly and Asian mushrooms in double consommé are especially good. Another of our favorites: Murray cod grilled with crab and tomato, and served with a lentil and celery ragoût.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.