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Longrain Sydney, Sydney

85 Commonwealth Street
Surry Hills
Tel: 61 2 9280 2888's insider take:

Another of the converted warehouses in Surry Hills, this modern Thai spot (which has a sister location in Melbourne) isn't the easiest to get into—dinner reservations aren't taken for fewer than eight people. But that doesn't seem to stop diners from lining up for the casual benches and tables. The food can be exhilarating—and very spicy. Among the best bets are a starter of betel leaves with smoked trout, galangal, and trout roe, and a main course of caramelized pork hock with chili vinegar. The braised duck with red curry is also a winner.

Open Sundays 5:30 to 10 pm; Mondays through Fridays noon to 2:30 pm, 6 to 11 pm; Saturdays 6 to 11 pm.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.