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Billy Kwong, Sydney

3/355 Crown Street
Surry Hills
Tel: 61 2 9332 3300's insider take:

Chef Kylie Kwong introduced the masses—or more accurately, the few lucky enough to nab a table in her tiny restaurant—to Cantonese home cooking, and her star has yet to wane. The restaurant is more of a casual neighborhood eatery than a big-occasion place, and it doesn't take reservations, so come by about 6:30 pm to learn why this convivial little box of a room and its frenetic kitchen has such a cult following. A huge light fixture casts a flattering glow over tables of young, local families and arty types, who perch on stools while tucking into plates of cloud fungus and pickled cucumber, steamed scallop wontons with piquant chile dipping sauce, and the swoon-worthy signature crispy-skinned duck. Kwong is a chef with a conscience, sourcing organic and biodynamic produce and actively supporting worthy causes such as Oxfam's Make Poverty History initiative.

Open Mondays through Thursdays 6 to 10 pm, Fridays and Saturdays 6 to 11 pm, and Sundays 6 to 9 pm.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.