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Rockpool (fish), Sydney

107 George Street
The Rocks
Tel: 61 2 9252 1888's insider take:

Ponytailed celebrity chef Neil Perry caused a seismic ripple on Sydney's gastro-scene when he announced his plan to shutter his most famous creation, Rockpool, and reinvent it as a casual fish restaurant. His reasoning: Fine dining is over, and it's time for a new challenge. It's said Perry was inspired by the success of his new Melbourne spin-off, Rockpool Bar & Grill, for which he introduced à la carte menus (instead of the wallet- and gut-straining degustation of his Sydney flagship) and a less big-occasion vibe. Whatever the case, Sydneysiders have embraced the new venture, renamed Rockpool (fish), which heralds a move to wholly sustainable seafood. The $660,000 makeover traded the old incarnation's heavy wooden blinds and formal feel for a more laid-back ambience. There's a new oyster bar, casual additions such as fish burgers, and a nod to old favorites like the stir-fried crab omelette.

Open Mondays through Fridays noon to 2:30 pm and 6 to 11 pm, Saturdays 6 to 11 pm.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.