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Sepia, Sydney

Darling Park
201 Sussex Street
Australia NSW 2000
Tel: 61 2 9283 1990's insider take:

With Tetsuya's former chef running the show, interest in Sepia ran high even before the ink on the contract was dry. Martin Benn is one of the brightest chefs Sydney has seen, and the news that he was striking out on his own for the first time after years with Tetsuya Wakuda (and Marco Pierre White at London's Criterion before that) had restaurant groupies going crazy. But this is no Tetsuya's lite. Dishes like spanner crab and buckwheat risotto with tarragon-mustard butter and a cloud of foamed shellfish essence suggest a chef flexing his muscles anew. Desserts show similar inspiration, and the quietly luxe setting and punchy wine list indicate that Sepia has legs.—Pat Nourse, first published on

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