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Craft, Dallas, Texas

W Hotel - Victory
2440 Victory Park Lane
Suite 100
Dallas , Texas
Tel: 214 397 4111's insider take:

Tom Colicchio isn't just a cutting-edge practitioner of the ingredients-first movement, he's practically the founder. This, the second outpost of his NYC institution, is one of the hottest tables in town. Soaring windows and muted natural colors flow through the big open space, but the mix-and-match minimalist menu is famously laissez-faire, putting all the focus on the ingredients. Your ordering task is to pick your protein and your sauce, so much of the meal's success is in your hands. Many of the more savory dishes are particularly good; pork belly melts in your mouth, and wild boar short ribs are impressive, but sweetbreads can come out slightly dry. Service is spotty, giving you the definite sense that success has gone to the staff's heads. Our last visit saw the dining room at a frigid temperature, and we had a server who seemed indifferent to the vintages listed on the wine list. And keep in mind that the bill is inevitably pretty steep. Still, the hot-table designation is deserved; this is Dallas's ante for the 21st-century game.

Open Sundays through Thursdays 6:30 am to 2:30 pm and 5:30 to 10:30 pm, Fridays and Saturdays 6:30 am to 2:30 pm and 5:30 to 11 pm.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.