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Leb-i derya, Istanbul

115/7 Kumbaracı Yokuşu
Tel: 90 212 293 4989's insider take:

A chic, glassless greenhouse stands in the middle of this hip but unpretentious rooftop place, with a bar counter lined with slatted white wood chairs round the roof perimeter. Though the point of the place is the setting, food is international, meaning that all-Turkish dishes mix it up with all-not-Turkish dishes. In the appetizer/meze region, the latter include potato skins and spiced fries, nachos, and Cajun chicken (in case anyone's homesick for the sports bar). At dinner, steak of all kinds—spiced and grilled; with eggplant and Tulum cheese—dominates alongside entrée salads and a few uninteresting pastas. Consider coming for Sunday breakfast with simit (a kind of croissant with sesame), eggs, borek, kashar cheese, and homemade bread—and the fab Bosphorus views in daylight. The same owners recently opened Leb-i derya Richmond, a similar concept on the top floor of a hotel on İstiklal Caddesi (445 İstiklal Caddesi, Beyoğlu; 90-212-243-4375;

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.