The Arezzo antiques market, Fiera Antiquaria (which takes place over the weekend that includes the first Sunday of each month), is arguably the best in Tuscany. Vendors take over the upper area of the city from the Basilica of San Francesco right past the duomo to sell antiques, paintings, jewelry, sculpture, crèche figures, prints, and silver ex-votos from churches (www.arezzofieraantiquaria.com).
If you're staying in the Chianti area and have the chance to cook, a visit to Italy's most famous butcher, Dario Cecchini, is more or less obligatory (11 Via XX Luglio, Panzano, near Greve; 39-055-852-020). Cecchini not only has the best Tonna del Chianti (pork shoulder packed in salt and then cooked in wine, sold in a vacuum-sealed pouch) and salumi (cured meats) in the area, he's also a larger-than-life showman who is liable to recite Dante at you as he carves. At the end of 2006, Cecchini opened an informal restaurant, Solo Ciccia ("only meat"), just across the road from his shop, where the traditional Tuscan menu revolves around his meaty wares. In Siena, Morbidi is a good all-round deli, where you can pick up fine Tuscan olive oils, salamis, vegetable and olive pastes, and cheeses, including a selection from the family's own dairy in Monteriggioni (75 Via Banchi di Sopra; 39-0577-280-268).
Fashion insiders know that you need to look beyond Via Tornabuoni in Florence and Via Condotti in Rome to find Italy's best shopping. A number of outlet malls hidden in the hills of Tuscany—especially in the Valdarno valley southeast of Florence—promise amazing savings on designer duds. Unlike in U.S. outlet malls, the goods here aren't manufactured specifically for discount sales; they're the real thing, marked down by 50 percent or better. Of course, outlet shopping is always hit-or-miss, but true shoppers know that the hunt is half the fun.
You'll need a car; otherwise arrange a tour through a travel agency that specializes in Tuscany (check our Travel Agent Finder for recommendations).
68 Località Levanella
Tel: 39 055 91 901
Trust Italy's most exclusive label to make its outlet store, just outside the town of Montevarchi, almost impossible to find, with signage so minimal that it feels like a treasure hunt. To get there, head south from Florence on the A1 Autostrada and take the Val d'Arno exit. Bear right, following the signs for Montevarchi. At the large roundabout, exit to the left, continuing toward Arezzo. Pass through Montevarchi and into Località Levanella. Shortly after the village, you'll see an Agip gas station on your right. Take the left at the flashing light immediately after it, following the signs for the Zona Industriale and "I Pellettieri d'Italia"—the official name of this huge gray and black warehouse with a sawtooth roof. Even when you've found a place to park the car, you're not quite in: First, you have to take a number from the ticket machine, then wait your turn, perhaps over a pricey cappuccino at the Prada bar on the corner, where an electronic number counter keeps you posted on progress. The reward is men's and women's clothing and accessories from both the Prada and Miu Miu labels at a fraction of the usual price (men's suits, for example, can be pcked up for a third of what you would pay in London or New York, sometimes less). The outlet is open from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday to Saturday and 2 p.m. to 7:30 p.m. on Sunday; smart shoppers know to avoid the weekend crush.
8 Via Europa
Tel: 39 055 865 7775
This smart new open-air mall, way out in the boonies about 40 minutes southeast of Florence, features an ever-growing strip of outlets from Italy's top design houses (and others). The Mall now hosts Agnona, Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, Burberry, Emanuel Ungaro, Ermenegildo Zegna, Fendi, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Hogan, La Perla, Loro Piana, Pucci, Salvatore Ferragamo, Sergio Rossi, Stella McCartney, Tod's, Valentino, Yohji Yamamoto, and Yves Saint Laurent. (Phew! Don't worry—there's a café where you can collapse after that retail workout.) From the A1 Autostrada, take the Incisa exit, then take a right toward Pontassieve on SS69. Continue into Leccio—past fields and cows and old Tuscan farmhouses—and look for the Mall on your left. (You'll also pass a smaller building containing Dolce & Gabbana and Fendi shops.) The Mall operates a shuttle bus from Florence; call to tell them which hotel you're staying in, and they'll pick you up (around $30 round-trip). Opening hours are Monday to Sunday from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.
One of the largest alabaster deposits in Italy is found near Volterra, and the semi-translucent stone has been quarried and carved here since Etruscan times. Shops all over the city sell lamp stands, paperweights, and other objects, some very beautiful. At the Cooperativa Artieri Alabastro, right in Piazza dei Priori, about 30 artisans show their wares (39-0588-87-590; www.artierialabastro.it). At Rossi Alabastri in Piazza della Pescheria, you can see the craftsmen carving in the adjacent workshop (39-0588-86-133; www.rossialabastri.com).
If you're just interested in buying, most Tuscan towns (not to mention the smallest villages in the major wine districts) offer ample opportunities. In Siena, the encyclopedic shop of the national wine institute, Enoteca Italiana, is currently closed for a makeover; it will reopen TK (www.enoteca-italiana.it). Siena's other enotecas are not that inspiring; better to head for Montalcino, where the Enoteca La Fortezza, in the medieval Rocca (castle) that dominates the town, has a huge selection of the two muscular local reds, Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino, and plenty of other bottles from all over Tuscany (Piazzale Fortezza; 39-0577-849-211; www.enotecalafortezza.com). Other wine shops that stand out from the crowd include La Vena di Vino (30 Via Don Minzoni; 39-0588-81491; www.lavenadivino.com) in Volterra, and Enoteca Vanni (7 Piazza del Salvatore; 39-0584-491-902; www.enotecavanni.com) in Lucca.