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La Bastiglia, Spello

7 Via dei Molini
Italy 06038
Tel: 39 074 265 1277's insider take:

This place vies with Il Postale as the place Umbrian foodies come when they can't afford a high-priced table. The restaurant and attached hotel occupy an old flour mill high up in the walled town of Spello. In summer, tables are laid out on a terrace with panoramic views; the rest of the year, they move inside to the rustic dining room, decorated with contemporary paintings. Chef Marco Gubbiotti is a classically trained chef who combines refined technique with a militant respect for provenance (at the top of his menu is a list of where the various ingredients come from). One trademark dish works three variations on Chianina beef; another pairs cotica (pork rind) as a filling for ravioli with rare Trasimeno beans, Savoy cabbage, and wild mint. A string of amuse-bouches (including some fine predesserts) fill any gaps; the wine cellar is one of the best-stocked in Umbria, and—hallelujah!—markups on bottles are gratifyingly low. Allow €65 per person (around $90) without wine if you go à la carte; there are also three tasting menus, including one for vegetarians.

Closed Wednesdays and the last three weeks in January. No lunch on Thursdays.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.