La Bastiglia, Spello
Tel: 39 074 265 1277
Concierge.com's insider take:
This place vies with Il Postale as the place Umbrian foodies come when they can't afford a high-priced table. The restaurant and attached hotel occupy an old flour mill high up in the walled town of Spello. In summer, tables are laid out on a terrace with panoramic views; the rest of the year, they move inside to the rustic dining room, decorated with contemporary paintings. Chef Marco Gubbiotti is a classically trained chef who combines refined technique with a militant respect for provenance (at the top of his menu is a list of where the various ingredients come from). One trademark dish works three variations on Chianina beef; another pairs cotica (pork rind) as a filling for ravioli with rare Trasimeno beans, Savoy cabbage, and wild mint. A string of amuse-bouches (including some fine predesserts) fill any gaps; the wine cellar is one of the best-stocked in Umbria, and—hallelujah!—markups on bottles are gratifyingly low. Allow €65 per person (around $90) without wine if you go à la carte; there are also three tasting menus, including one for vegetarians.
Closed Wednesdays and the last three weeks in January. No lunch on Thursdays.