High above the din of Charlotte Amalie and its cruise ship crowds stands At Home in the Tropics, a four-room B&B reminiscent of a New England beach house with white lace curtains, fresh white walls, and quilts in shades of Caribbean blue. Formerly the residence of the personal guard of the Danish governor of St. Thomas, the 200-year-old building was restored for its 2006 opening by owners Pam and Matt Eckstein. The adults-only policy makes it an ideal sanctuary for couples' retreats. Book rooms one or two for a private upper deck with panoramic views of St. Thomas and neighboring islands. If you're a nervous driver, be forewarned: Finding this B&B on its hilltop perch can be a bit disconcerting, and there's no shuttle service.

This 138-room resort near the Danish-built port of Christiansted is steeped in history: Alexander Hamilton once lived in what is now the main building, and an 18th-century sugar mill sits near the entrance (nowadays, it hosts a weekly cocktail party). The resort caters to families, offering adjoining units for children under 18 from April to December for 50% off. Whether you're traveling with your family or on a romantic getaway, it's worth splurging on a beachside doubloon, as the place calls its villas. Here you'll enjoy stylish fabrics (gingham and ticking stripe replace typically tropical motifs), crisp white walls with wood moldings, a window seat, and an enviable bathroom with a whirlpool tub (love the marble bench in the separate shower). There are also plenty of activities and amenities to keep you busy, including a private boat dock for day trips to Buck Island, three beaches and restaurants, two pools, tennis courts with on-site professionals, and one of St. Croix's two 18-hole golf courses—a par 72 with views of the Caribbean Sea.

Wondering where to find those idyllic Caribbean beaches with gin-clear water and sand as white as sugar? Caneel Bay has seven of them right on its 170-acre property. Laurance Rockefeller founded this serene hideaway over 50 years ago as a low-key luxe resort aimed at guests who wanted to stay within the boundaries of the Virgin Islands National Park. It still doesn't have room phones or TVs (instead of a wake-up call, guests can request a wake-up knock); however, you'll be doing anything but roughing it in the 166 guest rooms, outfitted in soothing shades of green with streamlined midcentury modern furniture and private patios or balconies. A-listers seeking to escape the paparazzi's glare (including Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt) often book cottage 7, which was Rockefeller's private beach house. Even more history-steeped is the Equator restaurant, which sits atop an 18th-century sugar mill overlooking the distant lights of St. Thomas. Guests arrive by private ferry from Charlotte Amalie and have unlimited use of Sunfish sailboats, kayaks, and snorkeling gear. Other amenities include free continental breakfast, 11 tennis courts, and the Self Center, which offers holistic treatments and yoga classes overlooking Honeymoon Beach.

The sprawling pink structure that is Frenchman's Reef is impossible to miss: It presides over the capital city, Charlotte Amalie, from the tip of a promontory. On busy port days, guests gather in the upper terrace bar to watch the cruise ships passing in and out of the harbor. The hotel has its own dock, making water sports or sailing excursions a snap; for those who'd rather burn calories browsing in town, the shopping ferry shuttles guests from the hotel. The 479-room behemoth offers two distinct hotel experiences. Frenchman's Reef, the main hotel, is more of a traditional family resort with sprawling pools, water sport excursions, and kid-friendly casual dining options (as well as the chic Havana Blue for parents' night out). Most of the sunshine-hued cheery rooms are being upgraded with new bathrooms and flatscreen TVs. The pricier Morning Star side of the resort offers a more intimate experience with beachfront, condo-style rooms removed from the activity of the main hotel. In addition to bathroom and TV upgrades, Morning Star is planning a dedicated concierge service and other perks.

Set above the pristine sweep of Maho Bay, Harmony Studios draws environmentally sensitive types who don't want to bunk in tents and share bathhouses. The airy accommodations have high ceilings, kitchenettes, and generously sized decks; dwellings are constructed from recycled materials and powered by the sun, with elevated walkways to minimize erosion. It's only a five-minute walk to sister resort Maho Bay Camps, which was founded in 1976 and is this earth-conscious hotel group's flagship property. Up at Maho, Harmony guests can visit the open-air restaurant, shop at the store for provisions and necessities, peruse the art gallery, and sign up for activities. Besides the usual hiking, snorkeling, and sailing, there are classes like ceramics, watercolors, papermaking, yoga, and glassblowing (resident artists use the recycled items from all four of the island's hotels).

At this Mediterranean villa-style resort, red-tile roofs cap graceful pink and terra cotta buildings, dramatic arched windows let in the islands' famous trade winds, and fountains gurgle in sunny courtyards. But once you amble through the gardens to the infinity pool and half-mile-long beach, the view across Great Bay—rolling green hills atop aquamarine water—locates you firmly in the tropics. Fresh off a $40 million renovation, the hotel has amped up the amenities, adding custom mattresses, Frette linens, and European down pillows. Seventy new suites on its Club Level include a dedicated concierge service. Even the spa has gone designer adding Prada facials. New dining options include the casual Sails lunch spot by the infinity pool, the family-friendly Great Bay Lounge whose "All American" and "Asian" menus aim to please picky and adventurous alike, and Bleuwater where Executive Chef Jaspar Schneider serves up seafood specialties like lobster Thai curry soup in an the elegant candlelit dining room or al fresco overlooking the ocean. The location—removed from the buzz of Charlotte Amalie—and the more formal feel make this the province of couples and families. Social types might want to opt for livelier digs like the Marriott.