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La Sucursal, Valencia

118 Calle Guillem de Castro
Old Town
Spain 46003
Tel: 34 96 374 6665's insider take:

Part of the IVAM contemporary art museum (though with its own separate entrance), this avant-garde eatery has an appropriately arty, minimalist style: stark white walls, cherrywood floors, dark brown boxy chairs. The menu here appeals to fans of Catalan superchef Ferran Adrià, the guru of molecular cuisine. Like Adrià, Sucursal chef Enrique Medina is keen on foams, and likes to serve dishes deconstructed into separate bowls and glasses. But though the combinations are audacious—for example, oysters wrapped in truffle gelatin, served with celery purée, fried artichokes, and arugula—they are also delicious. There are 28 different mineral waters on offer, and the wine list is immense. In November 2006, the restaurant opened an offshoot, Vertical, on the top floor of the new Aqua shopping mall (19 Calle Luis García Berlanga; 34-96-330-3800).

Closed Sundays. No lunch on Saturdays.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.