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Riff, Valencia

18 Calle Conde Altea
Spain 46005
Tel: 34 96 333 5353's insider take:

Chef Bernd Knöller may be German, but his understanding of local traditions (he's lived in Spain for more than 15 years) has made Riff one of the city's most popular Mediterranean restaurants. The airy, light-filled dining room, decorated with plants, gauzy screens, and art installations, is usually filled with foodies. Knöller's seasonal menus display a real sense of theater; in April 2007, he debuted an eight-course "Black Is Beautiful" tasting menu at €69 ($94), with a monochromatic lineup of dishes like skate in red wine and lamb ribs roasted in black sesame seeds. Going à la carte will set you back a bit less; at lunch, there's a great-value three-course business menu for €25, which can be combined with recommended wines by the glass for another €10.

Closed Sundays and Mondays.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.