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Around the Rialto Market, San Polo, Venice

San Polo

Do Mori

429 San Polo
Calle dei Do Mori
Tel: 39 041 522 5401
Open Mondays through Saturdays 8 am to 8 pm.


122 San Polo
Campo San Giacometto
Tel: 39 041 523 2061
Open Tuesdays through Sundays 9 am to 10:30 pm.


130 San Polo
Campo dell'Erbaria
Tel: 39 041 724 1035
Open Tuesdays through Sundays 12:30 to 3 pm and 7:30 to 10 pm.


222 San Polo
Campo Cesare Battisti
Tel: 39 041 523 7495
Open daily 9 am to 2 am.

Bar Mercà

213 San Polo
Campo Cesare Battista
Italy's insider take:

The market at the northwestern foot of the Rialto Bridge throbs in the morning as crowds of homemakers and restaurateurs fight to nab the freshest produce. Recently, a crop of good restaurants has turned the neighborhood into an evening destination, too. One of these, Do Mori, has actually been serving ombre and cicchetti beneath its ceiling of hanging copper pots for centuries. But it's newcomers like Bancogiro and Naranzaria—both dim, tastefully cluttered bacari with small groups of tables overlooking the Grand Canal—that put the area on the modern-day nightlife map. The slightly fancier Naranzaria specializes in wine from the owner's Friulian vineyards, coupled with the unique Veneto-Asian fusion cuisine of Japanese chef Akira. Bancogiro's defiantly pasta-free menu may include turbot fillet with pumpkin and rosemary or king prawns with local artichokes. The nearby Muro has a sleek, minimalist aesthetic and draws a chic design-y crowd to its downstairs bar before and after dinner. Upstairs, the chefs have no qualms about overturning Venetian traditions to combine pasta with angler fish and licorice, or to create a smoked sturgeon salad with zucchini and coriander. (The lunch menu is lighter on the wallet.) To knock back a spritz (the classic Venetian aperitivo of white wine, soda water, and Campari) in a congenial setting, Bar Mercà (also known as Al Marcà) is a friendly hole-in-the-wall serving wine and panini.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.