Founded in 1936 by Montana's first female doctor, the 320 Ranch, located five miles north of Yellowstone, draws a steady stream of outdoorsy types in Subarus, bandanna'd Labradors and Clif Bars in tow, eager to explore the surrounding forest and canyons. The 53 one- to three-bedroom log cabins, fitted with antique stoves and patchwork quilts, are pretty rustic, but they're a big step up from a Therm-a-Rest in the woods—and rates start at just $150 in high season. The two secluded A-frame chalets are popular with newlyweds. Guests who are here to fish the Gallatin River—there's a full-service Scott-endorsed fly shop on-site—should angle for a riverfront cabin. It's not uncommon to wake up to see ranchers herding dozens of horses to pasture. Summer's temperate weather is perfect for horseback riding, mountain biking, and rafting, while winter brings sleigh rides and snowmobiling on the grounds. There's also skiing, snowboarding, and dog sledding nearby. The Steak House restaurant and saloon caters to famished adventurers with belly-filling dishes like tender elk piccata and crème brûlée topped with local blackberries. Book at least six months in advance, especially for summer stays.

The Spanish-style architecture—adobe-looking walls and red-tiled roof—might seem out of context in southwest Montana: Shouldn't it be oceanside somewhere, framed by palms? But the inn has been here for a long time, partner. The two-story building was constructed in 1927 to serve rail passengers headed to relatively young Yellowstone National Park. The sun-splashed tile lobby with high, dark-stained beam ceiling retains a measure of this era's elegance, and the 33 mission-style rooms are tastefully restored with dark-walnut headboards and understated furniture (you won't find dead animals mounted on the wall). The Porter House restaurant, on the ground floor, uses fresh, local ingredients to produce dishes such as "Montana fish and chips" (whitefish from Flathead Lake) and a flavorful buffalo meatloaf. The location is 30 miles north of Big Sky, so you can sample nightlife in Bozeman, fishing on the Madison and Gallatin rivers, wildlife watching in Yellowstone, and skiing in Big Sky, all within an hour's drive. Ski packages are available, too.

Whitefish, in the state's northwest corner, has a split personality. The softer side is the town's fine lodging and good food. And then there's the roughin' it angle: the beautifully severe backcountry of Glacier National Park. Devote a couple days and hit both ends of the spectrum. Start at the Garden Wall Inn, two blocks off Central Avenue on a quiet street. The two-story B&B was built by a Great Northern railroad executive as a family home and it's still white-picket-fence cute, clad in white shingles and fronted by an inviting porch. The inside has 1920s Art Deco antiques, maple floors, and flowers from the garden. Breakfast is cooked and served by one of the co-owners (who are also trained chefs): Whatever time you rise, you'll get dishes such as an egg-and-leek soufflé stuffed with smoked Montana trout. After a few days in town, it's time to head to the backcountry. Sperry Chalet is within park boundaries and only reachable by a 6.5-mile trail that ascends some 3,000 feet. This is the perfect launching point for forays into this iconic American wilderness. While its caretakers give excellent advice on trails, we recommend coming well-prepared—this is rough country. The chalet, on the west side of Gunsight Mountain, was built in 1913 of native stone and rough timber and overlooks ten-mile-long McDonald Lake. The 17 spare rooms have no heat, electricity, or running water—and the bathroom building is shared by all—but you'll get clean sheets and three simple and hearty meals a day (Sperry Chalet, Glacier National Park; 888-345-2649, office@graniteparkchalet.com; www.sperrychalet.com/menu.html).

There isn't much to it—just four blocks of brick storefronts and ski slopes visible from the main strip—but the town of Red Lodge cheerfully accepts its end-of-the road isolation. A bit of a secret, it's the kind of place Montanans head to for a long weekend in the Beartooths. The best hotel in town is the Pollard, built in the 1890s during the local coal boom. The bar was haunted by characters like Liver Eating Johnson and Calamity Jane, and history still clings to the place, particularly the lobby reading room lined with black-and-white photos of Red Lodge at the turn of the century. The 38 rooms were renovated in 1994, and a few have hot tubs. During the winter, ski packages for the Red Lodge Mountain Resort are available, and in summertime the lobby is sure to have a few Harley-Davidson riders around: The Beartooth Highway is a warm-weather draw for those who love to motor.

This splendid new property on a sprawling cattle ranch outside Missoula has only 19 accommodations, but what choices! The most popular are the 11 Big Timber Homes, handsome two-story pine cabins with stone fireplaces and outdoor hot tubs. Then there's the ultra-secluded Blackfoot River Lodge, a light-filled retreat with stunning views from every window, and the allegedly haunted Morris Farmhouse, built in 1908 and decorated accordingly—except for the flat-screen TVs. In summer, guests can also opt for luxe safari-style tents pitched along the Blackfoot River. Outdoor excursions come with plenty of pampering (elegant picnic lunches on a rafting trip, massages after a bicycle tour). But this is coddling without pretension: Staff are gracious and chatty, the decor is all animal-skin rugs and cowboy portraits, and the Tank & Trough restaurant serves up a mean burger and fries.

Yes, it's a guest ranch. Yes, there are serious cattle drives, 24,000 acres to explore by horseback, and fly-fishing on the trout-rich Bitterroot River. But Triple Creek Ranch's main objective is to coddle guests with outstanding food and wine. The heart of the operation, built at the foot of Trapper Peak 75 miles south of Missoula, is the kitchen and glass-encased cellar with 230 wines, many from the Pacific Northwest. A Relais & Chateaux property—the only one in Montana—it earns its culinary stripes with dishes that change daily. A sampling might include Copper River salmon with spring asparagus, or rack of lamb crusted in herbs and accompanied with black truffle mashed potatoes. (Forget about losing weight.) While the ranch is open all year, vintner weekends are a big draw in summer, with tastings and seminars from notable winemakers such as Cyril Chappellet of Napa's Pritchard Hill. As far as accommodations, the lodge has 19 private log cabins that range from studio-size to the massive El Capitan, with its separate dining and living rooms. And with a ratio of almost two staffers to every guest, the service is attentive and highly personal (they'll know your name). Rates include all meals and house wine and cocktails.