Worship the sunset with a frosty margarita while nibbling on feather-light chips with lime-infused salsa. Segue to shrimp rubbed with achiote (a pungent yucatecan red spice similar to a curry) and flash grilled over a wood fire. Better yet, start the day with homemade yogurt over papaya and pineapple, and return for as many meals as possible. Renowned for its toes-in-the-sand simplicity, this deceptively rustic restaurant at the Zamas Hotel in Tulum serves some of the finest inexpensive meals in the Riviera Maya. Wood tables and chairs painted bright blue, orange and yellow balance on uneven floors indoors and sink into the sand beneath a grass awning beside the sea. A revolving display of handcrafted jewelry and textiles amuses diners awaiting a seat (pre-wedding parties and other large groups are commonplace at dinner). Check into an oceanfront hut for a few days, and you can work your way through the extensive menu from wood-fired pizzas to fish tacos, veggie-packed salads to grilled lobster.

Open daily 7:30 am to 10 pm.

Spice up the chips-and-guac routine with a trip to El Tábano, a welcome addition to the comida-starved southern end of Tulum's hotel zone. Homemade bread and avocado salad make delightful stand-ins for the region's more ubiquitous starters, while other local treats—airy jalapeños rellenos or ceviche con mango—are sexier versions of street-cart fare. The flavors may be refined, but the atmosphere is undeniably homey: Silverware emerges from a battered wooden dresser; diners sit at mismatched tables under the stars; and the modest open kitchen is housed under a simple palapa roof. Offerings on the oversize chalkboard menu change weekly, but standbys include albóndigas (Mexican meatballs) seasoned with tamarind, a delicate vegetable lasagna with tortillas in place of noodles, and clay-pot chicken with apples and avocado leaves. Reservations are a must.—Alison Baenen

Open Mondays through Saturdays 8:30 am to 9:30 pm.

This tasteful aerie overlooking Playa's Fifth Avenue is a welcome escape from the youthful cacophony at street level. In the evening, pierced tin stars glitter beneath a peaked palapa, and candlelight illuminates the linen-draped tables. The sophisticated Euro-centric menu offers pulpo gallega—octopus with paprika and boiled potatoes—and Hungarian goulash with spaetzle to diners who prefer their conversation sans shouting.

Open daily 11:30 am to midnight.

The sturdy señora behind the counter at the Hotel Básico's second-story puesto (food stall) knows her way around pescado (fish) and mariscos (shellfish). Her ceviche is a pure and simple blend of the freshest fish with cilantro, lime, onions, and olives—add a side dish of white rice and fried plantains for the perfect light meal. In keeping with the hotel's industrial-chic decor, fish tacos are served with the flimsy brown napkins typical at old-fashioned neighborhood taco stands. But don't be fooled: Even the tortilla chips here are nouveau—freshly fried and served with small bowls of chipotle dip, mayo, diced pineapple with cilantro, and pico de gallo.

Tulum meets Ibiza at Mezzanine, a too-cool restaurant/bar/hotel overlooking white sand and azure sea. DJs spin lounge music while bikini-clad escapists sip mango smoothies under soaring kitelike awnings. The chef's spicy beef salad with mint is a treat on a hot afternoon after a leisurely dip in the sea, while the more substantial shrimp pad thai and green curry go well with martinis during Friday night lounge parties. (The bar's signature cocktail is the "Mezzquito," made with Absolut Citron, Thai basil, Cointreau, lime juice, and raw sugar.) Local devotees drive from as far as Mérida to take part in the scene, and sometimes crash in one of the four hotel suites before sunrise.

Fashionable scenesters converge for late-night meals, cocktails, and thumping music at this restaurant and club. Even jaded sophisticates can't resist checking out their reflections in the beach-meets-bordello glass floors and abundant mirrors. The ambitious Mediterranean menu plays second fiddle to the high-style Italian decor. Stick with multiple starters and salads, and order a Mendoza malbec from the impressive wine cellar, which serves as an intimate private dining room for groups. Standouts include duck tacos, salmon tartare with avocado mousse, and the ceviche.

Open daily 7 pm to 2 am.