THE EVERGLADES: Song of Solitude
THE SETTING
Spanning more than 1.5 million acres at the far southwestern tip of mainland Florida, Everglades National Park protects the largest subtropical wilderness in the country. Fed by Lake Okechobee, the area contains sawgrass prairies, mangrove and cypress swamps, pinelands and hardwood hammocks. This World Heritage Site is known for its many species of birds, from the roseate spoonbill and wood stork, to the great blue heron. It is also the only place in the world where alligators, manatees and crocodiles exist side by side. With 156 miles of canoe and walking trails and 47 wilderness campsites, it's easy to find solitude at the Everglades. There are excellent picnic facilities adjacent to the Long Pine Key campground and also at West Lake, where a short boardwalk will take you through the mangrove forest to a lookout point on the shore. So stuff your knapsack, head for one of the trails and stop along the way for an alfresco lunch - but watch out for hungry alligators along the way.
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Much of the Everglades is actually under water, so it's no surprise that boat excursions are one of the park's most popular attractions. You can rent a canoe and maneuver yourself along the Chokoloskee Bay and the Turner River, or steer a kayak or small motorboat through the 99-mile Wilderness Waterway, which winds through the islands all the way to Flamingo. Waterboat tours are available year-round at Flamingo and Gulf Coast, and although airboats are not permitted inside the park, there are several private companies that offer airboat tours right outside the park boundaries. Hiking, bird watching, bicycling and horseback riding are also common diversions. One of the most splendid excursions is the Ten Thousand Islands, a maze of mangrove islands and waterways that extends south to Flamingo and Florida Bay. At the Royal Palm visitor center, sign up for Anhinga Amble, a ranger-led walk that will get you acquainted with anhingas, alligators and Florida gar. Rangers also direct sunset canoe rides, evening talks and Swamp Tramps through the Everglades' muddy marshes.
HOT TIPS
Get acclimated with the park at the Shark Alley visitor center, where you can grab a two-hour narrated tram ride through the freshwater Everglades. The Royal Palm visitor center is the place where several hiking trails begin, while Gulf Coast is the gateway for exploring the Ten Thousand Islands. If you go on the two-and-a-half-hour Swamp Tromp, be sure to wear lace-up shoes, socks and long pants that you won't mind getting muddy. At the Flamingo visitor center, you'll find a restaurant, gift shop, lodge and canoe rentals at the marina. Several hiking and canoeing trails begin at Flamingo or nearby, including the south end of the Wilderness Waterway. Keep a safe distance from alligators and snakes, and never pick up a snake, as it may be venomous.
PHOTO OPS
The observation tower at Shark Alley provides a spectacular view into the sawgrass marsh. Shark Valley, the Anhinga Trail and Eco Pond (one mile past the Flamingo visitor center) are good spots for viewing alligators, wading birds and other freshwater wildlife. Paddle your canoe into Snake Bight or Chokoloskee Bay before low tide to photograph large numbers of water birds feeding in the shallows and on mud flats.
LOCAL SPECIALTIES
Stash some Florida specialties, such as conch fritters, in your basket along with something tropical and citrusy, like Florida-grown oranges or grapefruits.
California Table Wine, Copyright 2002, Frei Bros.Vineyards, Modesto, CA, All Rights Reserved.