If you want to immerse yourself in Istanbul's arty scene, The House Hotel Galatasaray is where you need to be. Located near the happening neighborhoods of Çukurcuma and Tophane, it's a 19th-century apartment building reimagined as a 20-room hotel with a mod feel and original flourishes. The wood-beamed lounge on the fourth floor (where you'll also find the best rooms) is a fun hangout. Be warned, there's no elevator, but should a few stairs stand in the way of you scoring a room for under $200?

And while you're there...

Explore here:
The gentrifying neighborhood of Tophane, near the port, has become popular with the local art crowd. To see what all the fuss is about, stroll down Boazkesen Caddesi, where you'll find the galleries Pi Artworks, Outlet, and Non, as well as the magnificent, eight-domed Tophane-i Amire building, which hosts temporary exhibitions.

Eat here:
If you're serious about Turkish food, take the ferry across the Bosphorus to Kadiköy for a meal at Çiya. Chef Musa Dadeviren collected recipe ideas from Turkey's most far-flung corners for his meze, stews, and kebabs. Try the nizip yourtlusu, a meatball dish served in garlic yogurt with pita bread.

Photo: The House Hotel Galatasaray