The Jayamahal Palace Hotel wears its decidedly unmodern stamp on its sleeve. You won't find broadband or even an elevator in this former private residence. Of the 37 guest rooms, the 11 suitesbearing imprints of the Gujarati, Wadiyar, and colonial erasare at the top of a magnificent wooden staircase. Architecture buffs will relish the classical proportion and elegant crown moldings. The bathrooms are big, and although the hot water can take several minutes to kick in, the rooms have an atmospheric lived-in quality that no fancy design can duplicate. There's a certain informalityno room service, for example, although the chef will prepare something upon requestand in a sense the Jayamahal is really a palace masquerading as a hotel. The food is spiced to the Indian palate, and the sprawling grounds are untamed.
When to go: October through February.
Which room to book: The Royal Suite has wonderful stained glass windows; the Gujarat Suite includes a wooden swing (doubles, $112–$212).