In contrast to the city's shiny modern vibe, the 259-room Park Hyatt takes its inspiration from Vietnam's colonial past, exuding the elegance of an old-world residence with its louvered windows, ceiling fans, and four-poster beds. Clever touches include closets that separate the bedroom from the bath, allowing access from either side—but keep your possessions out of reach of the rain shower, which sprays beyond its designated range. Staff excel, delivering breakfast on the dot. The hotel's Italian restaurant, Opera, has brought alfresco dining (absent since the war) back to historic Lam Son Square, while a second restaurant, Square One, is fast becoming the city's top choice. A graceful waterfall in the outdoor pool obscures the urban drone.