In the pretty port of St-Martin, on the French equivalent of Martha's Vineyard, the Hôtel de Toiras, a cluster of beautifully decorated stone houses, is the kind of place where you'd happily spend the day curled up with a novel. The 17 rooms, each named for a figure associated with Île de Ré, are handsomely furnished: antiques, rugs, and walls swathed in fabrics of vivid yellows, pinks, reds, and blues. You'll get a warm welcome from the young bilingual staff, and find a roaring fire in the lobby during the off-season. Talented chef Thomas Urbanek will custom cook your dinner at the restaurant; ask to join him when he goes to market.
When to go: Low season (anytime except June through August), when the island belongs to the Rétais again.
Which room to book: The Pierre Loti Suite (named after a naval officer and Orientalist), which has a Mogul ceiling in the bathroom, an Indian-print bedspread, Asian-accented furniture, and a fireplace (doubles, $214–$298).