At last, an English country house hotel for people who loathe traditional English country house hotels for their whispery dining rooms, dusty chintz, and phlegmatic plumbing. Here, insteadcompliments of hotelier Olga Polizzi and her daughter, Alex, who runs the placeis a storybook retreat that's discreetly stylish, quiet, surrounded by lovely gardens, and possessing a superb setting overlooking the Tamar River. The 16-room hotel was created from the 1812 shooting-and-fishing lodge of Georgina, Duchess of Bedford, and the Regency spirit has been handsomely brought to life with framed etchings, China trade wallpaper, bamboo bits and pieces, lots of booksthis is a great getaway for anyone who loves to readand superbly comfortable beds. Both riding and hiking are possible, and there's famously good salmon and sea-trout fishing at an adjacent club. Chef Shay Cooper does a clever update of old-fashioned English food like roasts and salmon. The only things that are reminiscent of traditional English country houses are in fact quite welcome: the honor bar in the library, the full cream tea, and the thwack of someone playing croquet on a lawn somewhere.
When to go: Spring and fall.
Which room to book: Request a second-floor double to get the best views (doubles, $367–$629).