Fresh from a makeover, the legendary Roosevelt has kept some of its more famous relicsthe lobby with its Spanish fountain, the pool area immortalized by David Hockney's brushstrokes, the hulking red neon signbut other ghosts of Hollywood past have been sent packing. The lofty rooms of the 12-story tower block now project
a modern aesthetic that includes heaps of chrome and leather set against chocolate-colored walls. Dakota restaurant puts a new spin on the traditional steak house. The poolside, velvet ropeaccess Tropicana Bar is once again the place to see and be seen, and Teddy's bar is even more exclusive.
When to go: November through December, for smogless days and offbeat holiday shopping along Hollywood Boulevard.
Which room to book: One of the cool poolside cabanas. Many of the tower block's east-facing rooms overlook Grauman's Chinese Theater (doubles, $179–$400).
Amenities:
24-hour Room Service,
Bar/lounge,
Gym,
Pool