Address: 2 E 55th Street

Tel: 212-710-2277

The third time's the charm. After the demise of his two previous New York restaurants, the indefatigable Alain Ducasse has returned for another round, this time at the St. Regis Hotel. Designer David Rockwell has swept away the fusty decor, covering the walls with a silver-leaf glass scrim and decking the room with illuminated displays of wine bottles (you can access details on the 600-plus list electronically in the tiny interactive wine bar). The food is picture-perfect, much of it as good as it looks. Pristine hamachi is lined up like petals with slivered radishes in a green apple mustard sauce; pork tournedos, garnished with candied pork belly and a crumble of boudin noir, is glorious. So is the chocolate sorbet, served in a pudding bowl under a layer of cocoa powder (entrées, $32–$49).