Address: 15 Rue Desnouettes

Tel: 33-1-48-56-15-36

Afaria is the latest, and most original, of New Wave bistros to open in Paris. Set in the residential fifteenth arrondissement, it's at odds with its sleepy environs: there's a lively table d'hôte opposite the bar, red glass lights hanging from the ceiling, and a doorway festooned with Russian matryoshka dolls. The eclectic decor matches chef Julien Duboue's unorthodox style, which begins with a menu organized according to themes such as Produits Nobles (Luxury Produce) and Leger (Light). Each category has appetizers, entrées, and desserts, which diners can mix and match at whim. The superb cold artichoke soup à la Grecque is a good start, perhaps followed by the sea bream fillet atop spaghetti laced with saffron, mussels, and clams. The mostly fruit-based desserts includes an excellent caramelized baby pineapple (entrées, $21–$42).