Hot List Tables 2008
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Address: 500 W Superior Street
Tel: 312-494-1900
This sleek New York import, named for Art Deco designer Emile-Jacques Ruhlmann, has Christian Delouvrier at the helm. The vast, beautifully lit (and rather noisy) dining room is hung with alabaster chandeliers and divided up by glass-topped red velvet banquettes. It has a 30-foot bar, mountainous displays of fruits de mer, mosaic tile floors, and filigree woodwork. Delouvrier, formerly of New York's now-closed four-star Lespinasse, turns out first-rate brasserie stalwarts—escargots, steak au poivre, onion soup—enlivened with his own little touches. A cheese soufflé, molten in the center, is encrusted with salt crystals, and crisp pieces of skate with lemon butter come with tomato concassée. Desserts are traditional: feathery napoleons and apple, lemon, and chocolate tarts (entrées, $22–$42).
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