Address: 111 Middle Street
With just a handful of blond wood tables, nostalgic snapshots dangling from clothespins, and a single waitress, chef Krista Kern's first venture is as low-key as it gets. And that's the appeal: Everything here, from the homey Italian fare to the genial service, feels genuine and comfortable. Braised Tuscan black kale with crispy pancetta and a six-minute egg over grilled semolina toast steals the show, but lusty agnolotti with pumpkin and chestnut in a velvety chicken liver sauce is a close second. The occasional underseasoned dish is quickly forgiven with bliss--inducing desserts like a brown butter financier cake topped with dried fruit, roasted pears, and crème fraâche ice cream (entrées, $18$24).