Address: 70a Via Veneto

Tel: 39-06-4890-2867

The Regina Hotel Baglioni recently installed the dark, chic Brunello on a chunk of prized real estate near the top of the Via Veneto. Claiming this high ground as a place where "gastronomy, culture, designs, and music meet," the restaurant has sidewalk tables amid the pedestrian bustle, a casual but plush lounge, and a proper dining room. Chef Daniele Sera incorporates experimental elements into traditional Italian dishes: pan-fried wild goose liver in Armagnac sauce and chocolate flakes, and scorpion fish risotto with wild fennel. Concoctions occasionally suffer from overreach—dabs of Chanel No. 5 on a martini glass stem do not necessarily enhance the drink—but they get points for effort. Every region of Italy is represented on the 500-plus wine list (entrées, $24–$35).