Address: 28 Piazza Augusto Imperatore
Gusto al 28, the latest addition to the 'Gusto dining empire, is dedicated exclusively to fish and vegetables. The dazzling interiors, visible from the piazza through a two-story glass front, recall a cruise ship: crisp white walls and floors, soaring ceilings, porthole windows, and a railed-in mezzanine that feels like a top deck. The simple menuone side for fish, cooked and raw, the other for vegetarianbelies the complexity of dishes such as sea bass tartare with almonds, basil, and spiced salt, and seaweed salad with quail eggs and red-and-black wild rice. Fresh pastas are inventive, but not distractingly so: ricotta and borage ravioli in a parsley and mushroom sauce; buckwheat crêpes stuffed with tofu, wild chicory, and sautéed vegetables; and shellfish lasagna layered with cannellini puree (entrées, $22$55).