Address: Plaça de la Font, Mercat de la Barceloneta

Tel: 34-93-224-2525

In the latest sign that the Barceloneta area is going upscale, chef Ángel Pascual set his restaurant in the center of what was, until recently, a barrio of fishermen and washerwomen. The Michelin-starred Lluçanes is tucked into an upstairs corner of the local market, but with its huge open kitchen, you'll hardly notice the uninspiring industrial decor. As befits a port, seafood is the star: A juicy square of sea bream sits in a pool of algae romesco, while a flavorful suquet, the classic Catalan shellfish stew, is darkly flavorful and thick with prawns and the crayfishlike escarmalans. The chef has a thing for truffles—they show up, lavishly, in everything from the delicate vegetable broth with "meringued" egg to the dense dessert pudding known as tocino de cielo. The artisanal breads, like the fine-crumbed pain de mie, are from the market downstairs (entrées, $38–$55).